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Resilience and Risk: Caviar Production Amidst Conflict in Northern Israel

Amid ongoing hostilities with Hezbollah, caviar producers in northern Israel navigate perilous conditions to sustain their valuable industry.

By Jack NicasSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Resilience and Risk: Caviar Production Amidst Conflict in Northern Israel
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

As war rages on Israel’s border with Lebanon, caviar farmers remain resolute despite frequent bombings, addressing both the risks of conflict and the immense value of their fragile produce.

In northern Israel, the caviar industry faces unprecedented challenges as producers contend with the realities of war. Assaf Koren, manager of Caviar Galilee in Kibbutz Dan, finds himself amidst a landscape littered with shrapnel from Hezbollah rockets, remnants of 14 months of conflict which has left many areas abandoned. Despite the threat of violence, Koren and his team continue to operate, prioritizing the welfare of their 50,000 female osetra sturgeon, essential for their lucrative caviar. Each day, Koren grapples with the moral dilemma of asking his employees to come to work amidst the chaos. Yet, the financial stakes are high; the ovaries of the sturgeon they nurture could yield caviar worth upwards of $40 million. “It's a tough call," admits Koren, "but we must continue.” Just weeks prior, the farm experienced direct bomb damage when a Hezbollah rocket caused significant destruction, prompting workers to rush back the next day as the fish required feeding. The tenacity demonstrated by these farmers reflects not only their commitment to their craft but also a deep-seated resolve to persevere amid adversity. Despite the constant threat hovering overhead, caviar farmers in northern Israel demonstrate remarkable resilience, balancing the risks of conflict with the opportunities presented by the luxury market for caviar in cities like New York and Tokyo. As they face uncertainty, the farmers' dedication to their prized fish stands as a testament to their undeterred spirit amidst turmoil.

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